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Author Topic: bounty hunter  (Read 1655 times)
tiacraig
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« on: January 31, 2010, 10:00:53 PM »

any body know much about bounty hunter lone star
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PHIL YNYSBOETH
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« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2010, 10:17:19 PM »

Hi Craig

I owned and entry lever bounty Hunter for a while 
The lone stars got target ID 2 operating modes,touch pad adjustments, 3 tone audio disc and 3 levels of Iron Elimination and auto ground balance

Its a great starter machine and if you buy a good used one
when you come to trade up you wont loose any money  ;0) try ebay

all the best
Phil
 



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Chef Geoff
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« Reply #2 on: February 01, 2010, 08:41:35 AM »

Hi Craig
Many people joke about the Bounty Hunter rang (me being one of them), but the truth is their electronics are second to none. It has always been their quality of manufacture (or more realistically their feel) that has let them down.
When they were introduced into the UK back in the 80's they were the "new must have machine", they introduced "notch technology" and their depth is much better than many more expensive machine owners would like to admit.
I have a BH Quick Draw II that I use just for headphone testing, when set up properly I can achieve air test distances on a pre decimal penny of 18" and that is with a 8" coil (about the same as a T2, F75, GMP and better than the explorer) They are made by the same people as Teknetics and Fisher and are one of the largest electronics company's in the US. They are used as the detector of choice (or necessity) by the Thames Mudlarks (club)  because of their blindness to iron. Garrett has done really well in selling their Ace range of machines which do have a better build quality, but in reality they have just taken a bounty hunter and re modelled it.
So all in all yes they are good machines, but I would advice you to also get the 10" coil.
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tiacraig
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« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2010, 07:54:55 PM »

thanks for that info i have a bounty huntger lone star and i dont konw how to setup proprley and im a bit confused with it could u help me set it to our metals plz thanks craig
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Chef Geoff
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« Reply #4 on: February 01, 2010, 08:55:42 PM »

Hi again
Well it is pretty simple, though I don't know what you mean by "our metals".
Turn the machine on with the sensitivity knob and turn it up to about the 3 o'clock position, now press the disc button and turn the disc knob up to about the 10 o'clock position. this should give you good depth and disc out most nail and small bits of iron.
Pop some different coins down in your garden and just see how the respond and what they sound like.
Good luck
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Chef Geoff
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« Reply #5 on: February 01, 2010, 09:58:16 PM »

OK Craig, metal detectors work by sending out a magnetic field and certain objects cause a ripple in this field this disturbance is picked up by the machine and translated into the tone you hear, now certain metals have a magnetic field (ferrous or iron) and all have a certain conductivity dependant on their material and size all these factors effect the ripp;e and are picked up by a modern metal detector, (which is calibrated to be accurate on coin sized finds) however some materials exhibit the same properties ie a ring pull has the same signature as a gold ring, a screwed up piece of silver paper is the same as a hammered coin etc etc. the important thing is to disc out small iron and dig the rest. Yes you will still dig some rubbish but we all do. It's all part of the chase.
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jaseboy
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« Reply #6 on: February 01, 2010, 10:08:16 PM »

Thats top info cheff
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